Hiking in Trolltunga

Trolltunga — the 'troll's tongue' — is a thin blade of rock that juts horizontally out of the mountainside 700 metres above the lake of Ringedalsvatnet, and standing on its tip is one of the defining images of Norwegian hiking.

Around ninety thousand walkers a year make the pilgrimage, and it is earned: a demanding 28-kilometre round trip climbing over a thousand metres into high, wild fjell country before the trail delivers you to that impossibly photogenic ledge.

The reward is not only the famous rock but the whole day among glacier-scoured plateaux, snow patches lingering into summer and vast Hardanger views.

It is a genuine mountain day rather than a casual stroll, and completing it — then queuing for your moment on the tongue with the fjord world dropping away beneath your boots — is deeply satisfying.

A long, strenuous day hike — roughly 28 kilometres there and back with over 1,000 metres of ascent — on a well-trodden but rugged mountain trail of rock, mud and lingering snowfields.

Most fit walkers take eight to twelve hours round trip, so an early start is essential, and the high plateau is exposed to fast-changing weather with cold, wind and cloud possible even in summer.

There is no technical climbing, but the distance, the ascent and the remoteness make it serious; people regularly underestimate it and get caught out by darkness or storms. At the end, a queue usually forms for the photo on the tongue itself, which has no railings and a sheer drop.

Strong legs, good boots and honest self-assessment are what the day demands.

Hike in summer, roughly mid-June to mid-September, when the trail is snow-free and the days are long; outside that season it becomes a winter expedition needing a guide.

Start early — before 8am — to allow ten-plus hours and avoid finishing in the dark, and check the mountain weather before setting off. Carry plenty of food and water, warm and waterproof layers, and a headtorch even in summer. Wear proper hiking boots for the rocky, often muddy path.

Park at the designated trailheads (fees apply) and consider the higher car park to shorten the walk.

No permit or guide is needed in summer for fit hikers, but be realistic about your fitness and turn back if weather closes in — the tongue is not worth a night out on the fjell.