Climbing in Kalymnos

Kalymnos is where sport climbing goes on holiday. This small Greek island in the Dodecanese has, over a couple of decades, become the most concentrated bolted-crag network in Europe — thousands of routes on grey and orange limestone, much of it draped with the tufas and stalactites climbers dream about, and nearly all of it a ten-minute walk from the road.

The formula is close to perfect: climb in the morning, swim in the Aegean in the afternoon, eat well in a harbour taverna in the evening, and repeat. Grades span the full range from beginner-friendly to world-class, so it suits a first sport-climbing trip and an expert's project week equally, and the vast Grande Grotta cave is a genuine bucket-list venue.

Spring and autumn are the seasons — high summer is too hot on the exposed walls. Guiding and gear rental are easy to arrange on the island. Few places on earth make hard climbing feel this much like a beach holiday.

Thousands of bolted routes on grey and orange limestone, much of it hung with the tufas and stalactites sport climbers dream about, and nearly all of it a ten-minute walk from the road.

Grades span the full range, so a complete beginner can be led up real rock on day one while an expert works a project a few metres along.

The rhythm is the draw: climb in the cool of the morning, swim in the Aegean in the afternoon, eat in a harbour taverna at night. The vast Grande Grotta cave is a bucket-list venue. Spring and autumn are comfortable; high summer bakes the walls.

Fly to Kos, take the short ferry to Kalymnos, and base yourself in Masouri or Armeos, right below the main crags. Come in spring or autumn — March to May or September to November — since summer is too hot on the exposed limestone.

Guiding, instruction and gear rental are all easy to arrange on the island, so beginners can turn up with nothing and be climbing real routes the first day; experienced pairs just need a guidebook and quickdraws. Bring a helmet and a seventy-metre rope.

No permit is required, and approaches are short.