Skip to content
Getaway

Climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Colorado·United States

Climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Photo: Massimo Catarinella · Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Epic~5 daysPermit required

Why go

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison drops more than 800 m in sheer walls of dark gneiss and pegmatite so narrow that parts of the floor see little sunlight. Its routes are long, committing and remote, from the moderate Maiden Voyage to the classic Scenic Cruise on the North Chasm View Wall.

When

In season: May–Jun, Sep · Peak: May, Sep

Who it’s for

Skill
Advanced–Expert
Effort
Serious
Suitable from
16+ · Teen+
Crowds
Empty
Cost
$

Climbing specifics

Discipline
Trad
Grade range
5.9 to 5.13 on long routes
Rock type
Gneiss, Pegmatite
Bolted
No

What to expect

Descents by steep gullies to the river, then long days of trad climbing back out with loose rock, poison ivy and few escape options. Summer is too hot; spring and autumn are the seasons.

Sectors

What the difficulty bands mean
moderate
Sustained effort or some exposure; comfort on the terrain expected.
hard
Long, technical or serious — experience and the right conditions required.
  1. Maiden Voyage

    moderate

    The moderate route, and the introduction to the canyon

  2. The Scenic Cruise

    hard

    Thirteen pitches on the North Chasm View Wall

  3. Journey Home

    hard

    Long, committing and famous for loose rock

How to start

Register for a free wilderness permit at the North or South Rim ranger station before climbing. Climb Maiden Voyage first to learn the canyon, and only attempt the Scenic Cruise with solid multi-pitch trad experience.

What else is in Colorado

Climbing elsewhere

New adventures, now and then

A short note when a batch of places worth the trip goes up. No spam, no operators, unsubscribe anytime.