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Climbing in the Penon de Ifach

the Penon de Ifach·Spain

Climbing in the Penon de Ifach

Photo: Wikimedia Commons · Wikimedia Commons

~2 days

Why go

The Penon de Ifach is the Costa Blanca's great objective - a sheer sea-stack monolith laced with long, exposed multi-pitch lines like the Via Valencianos, finishing above the marina and the sea.

When

In season: Oct–May · Peak: Mar–Apr, Oct–Nov

Who it’s for

Skill
Advanced–Expert
Effort
Demanding
Suitable from
16+ · Teen+
Crowds
Steady
Cost
$$

Climbing specifics

Discipline
Multi pitch
Grade range
5 to 7a
Rock type
Limestone
Bolted
Yes

What to expect

Committing multi-pitch on generally solid limestone, airy and sustained, in a nature reserve with access rules and a summit tunnel. Winter sun makes it a cold-season classic.

Sectors

What the difficulty bands mean
moderate
Sustained effort or some exposure; comfort on the terrain expected.
hard
Long, technical or serious — experience and the right conditions required.
  1. Sector Poniente

    moderate

    Single pitches at the base for a short day

  2. Vía Valencianos

    hard

    The classic 300 m line up the north face, straight out of the sea

  3. Diedro UBSA

    hard

    Corner system on the east face, long and exposed

How to start

Base in Calpe at its foot. Come with multi-pitch experience, a double rope and a rack; check reserve access and tides, or hire a Costa Blanca guide.

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