Kentucky·United States
Photo: Jarek Tuszyński · Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)
The Red River Gorge is one of the best sport-climbing areas in the world, its sandstone cliffs studded with iron-rich pockets and huecos. From the steep caves of the Motherlode to the mid-grade crags of Muir Valley, there are thousands of bolted lines in a deeply wooded gorge.
In season: Mar–May, Sep–Nov · Peak: Oct
Pumpy, overhanging sport climbing on jugs and pockets, with humid summers and the best conditions in spring and autumn. Many crags are on private preserves with their own rules.
The introduction sector, short approach and classic lines
Dozens of crags on one preserve, mid-grade heaven
Steep pocketed sandstone, the hardest sector in the Gorge
Base in Slade or Campton, where the climbers' campgrounds and pizza are famous. Start at Roadside Crag and Muir Valley, and move to the Motherlode once you climb the harder grades.
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