Horse riding in North Iceland

Skagafjörður in the north is Iceland's horse country — the one region, they say, where horses outnumber people — and it's the finest place in the country to ride the Icelandic horse across its native ground.

Multi-day highland treks take you at the smooth, flowing tölt gait over open moor, through glacial rivers and along valleys ringed by mountains, often driving a free herd of spare horses ahead, exactly as farmers have for a thousand years.

In September comes the réttir: the great autumn round-up, when horses and sheep are gathered from the highlands and sorted in stone corrals in a boisterous, deeply traditional community event you can ride as part of.

Whether it's a long summer trek or the drama of the round-up, this is horse riding steeped in living Icelandic culture, on the toughest, friendliest little horse there is.

Guided riding on Icelandic horses, from half-day rides to multi-day highland treks with overnights at farms or huts.

The Icelandic horse is small, sure-footed and famous for the tölt, an extra smooth gait that makes long days comfortable, and for its calm temperament — so this is open to beginners as well as experienced riders, though longer treks and river crossings suit those with some saddle time.

Expect open highland terrain, glacial river fords, changeable weather and long days in the saddle on the treks. The réttir round-up in September is a livelier, more physical affair among crowds of horses. Guides match a horse to your ability and handle the herd and navigation.

Warm, waterproof layers and a willingness to be out in the weather are essential; the reward is riding wild country in the traditional way.

The riding season is roughly May to September, with the réttir round-up in September specifically.

Book with a Skagafjörður horse farm or riding operator; they provide the horses, helmets and a guide, and match a horse to your experience, so beginners and families are welcome on shorter rides while longer highland treks reward those with some experience.

For the réttir, book a round-up tour well ahead, as dates are fixed and places limited. Wear long trousers, warm and waterproof layers, and sturdy boots with a small heel if you have them; a helmet is provided.

Tell the operator your experience level honestly, especially for multi-day treks with river crossings. It's cool and changeable even in summer, so pack for weather, and simply enjoy one of Iceland's most authentic traditions.