Oregon·United States
Photo: Kristen Chadwick, US Forest Service · Wikimedia Commons (Public domain)
Mount Hood rises alone above the forests east of Portland, one of the most climbed glaciated peaks in the world. The South Side route from Timberline Lodge passes steaming fumaroles and the Hogsback ridge before squeezing through the icy chutes of the Pearly Gates to the summit.
In season: Apr–Jun · Peak: May
A pre-dawn start from Timberline for a long day on steep snow and ice at the top, with rockfall and icefall as the sun warms the crater. Conditions are best in spring and deteriorate by early summer.
The standard spring route, crevasses and the Pearly Gates
Steeper line on the west side, less crowded
The northeast approach, the longest way up
Fill in the free climbing permit at Timberline Lodge and check the conditions reports. Climb the South Side with a guide or experienced partner, learn self-arrest first, and try the Leuthold Couloir or Cooper Spur once you are comfortable on steeper snow.
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