Oregon·United States
Photo: Los Paseos from Earth · Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)
In the 1980s climbers at Smith Rock began bolting routes on its steep volcanic tuff, and the area became the cradle of sport climbing in the United States. The Dihedrals hold historic test pieces, and the free-standing tower of Monkey Face is one of the most famous formations in the country.
In season: Mar–May, Sep–Nov · Peak: Apr, Oct
Technical face climbing on edges and pockets, from beginner walls to some of the hardest routes in the country, with a short walk down to the river. Summer afternoons are hot, and the park is busy at weekends.
The mid-grade wall most visitors climb first
Where American sport climbing was invented in the 1980s
The free-standing tower and its aid and free routes
Camp at the park's bivouac area or stay in Terrebonne. Start on Morning Glory Wall, hire a local guide for the basics, and move to the Dihedrals and Monkey Face as your grade improves.
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