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Mountaineering in the Elk Range

Colorado·United States

Mountaineering in the Elk Range

Photo: MostlyDeserts · Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Epic~5 daysPermit required

Why go

The Elk Range near Aspen holds some of the most dramatic peaks in the Rockies, including Capitol Peak with its exposed Knife Edge and the Maroon Bells, whose crumbling sedimentary rock earned them the name the Deadly Bells. Their summits reward careful, experienced scramblers.

When

In season: Jul–Sep · Peak: Aug

Who it’s for

Skill
Advanced–Expert
Effort
Serious
Suitable from
16+ · Teen+
Crowds
Quiet
Cost
$

Mountaineering specifics

Summit
4307 m
Route
Capitol Peak, Knife Edge
Technical
Class 3-4 scrambling on loose rock, exposed ridges
Winter gear
Helmet; ice axe in early season
Altitude risk
Moderate

What to expect

Class 3 and 4 scrambling on steep, loose rock, with exposure, rockfall and route-finding challenges. Start before dawn to be down before the afternoon lightning.

Routes

What the difficulty bands mean
hard
Long, technical or serious — experience and the right conditions required.
  1. Capitol Peak and the Knife Edge

    hard

    The hardest standard fourteener route in Colorado

  2. Maroon Bells traverse

    hard

    Between the two Bells on loose rotten rock

  3. Pyramid Peak

    hard

    Steep scree and exposed scrambling above Aspen

How to start

Climb easier fourteeners elsewhere in Colorado first, and learn to move on loose rock. Get the overnight wilderness permit, camp at Capitol Lake for Capitol Peak, wear a helmet, and consider a guide for the Maroon Bells traverse.

What else is in Colorado

Mountaineering elsewhere

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