Ski touring in Mount Yotei

Mount Yotei stands alone on the Niseko plain, so symmetrical it looks like a child's drawing of a volcano, and it is the great backcountry objective of southern Hokkaido. There are no lifts and no queues — just a five-or-six-hour skin up from the road, through the same impossibly light snow that has made the region famous.

The reward at the top is a choice. You can ski straight back down the outside, or drop into the summit crater itself — a huge bowl of untracked snow — climb back out, and then descend the flank all the way to where you started. Standing on the rim of a volcano with a run waiting inside it is a rare thing in skiing.

This is avalanche terrain with no patrol and no safety net. Carry the gear, understand the snowpack, and take a guide — they are widely available in Niseko and Kutchan, and on a mountain like this they are simply the sensible call.

Mount Yotei stands alone on the Niseko plain, so symmetrical it looks like a child's drawing of a volcano, and it is the great backcountry objective of southern Hokkaido.

No lifts, no queues — just a five-or-six-hour skin up from the road through the same impossibly light snow the region is famous for.

The reward at the top is a choice: ski straight back down the outside, or drop into the summit crater itself — a huge bowl of untracked snow — climb back out, and descend the flank all the way to the start.

Standing on the rim of a volcano with a run waiting inside it is a rare thing in skiing.

This is avalanche terrain with no patrol and no safety net, so carry a full avalanche kit, understand the snowpack, and take a guide — they are widely available in Niseko and Kutchan, and on a mountain like this they are simply the sensible call.

Go between January and April; midwinter gives the lightest snow, spring the more stable pack for the crater descent. Come fit enough for a long skinning ascent and experienced enough for serious off-piste. Base in Niseko or Kutchan at the mountain's foot.

Start early to give yourself the whole day, and watch the weather — Yotei catches every storm that crosses the plain.