Trail running in Bieszczady

The Bieszczady are Poland's wild south-eastern corner, and their signature is the połoniny — high, open, grassy ridgelines that run for kilometres above the treeline, giving long, flowing running with views in every direction and almost nobody else on the trail. For a runner who wants space, this is one of the emptiest ranges in Europe.

The appeal is solitude as much as terrain. This is thinly populated country better known for wolves, bison and lynx than for crowds, so a long day on the ridges can pass without meeting another soul — just grass, sky, and the rounded summits rolling on ahead. The running is proper hill work, with real climbs to gain the ridge, but the ground up top is fast and open.

Summer and early autumn are the seasons, when the połoniny are clear and the colours begin to turn. Carry more than you think you'll need — help is a long way off out here — and go for exactly the emptiness that's the whole point.

Exposed, wide grassy ridges, minimal shade, and very little water on route.

Carry more water than you think you need and tell someone your route — phone signal is patchy.