Trekking in Annapurna Circuit

The Annapurna Circuit is one of the world's great treks precisely because of how much it changes along the way. In two weeks it passes through perhaps four different worlds — subtropical rice terraces, pine and rhododendron forest, and then the arid, Tibetan-feeling high country in the rain shadow beyond the mountains — on either side of its great obstacle, the Thorong La at 5,416 metres.

Crossing the pass means a start around three in the morning in hard cold, and the long drop to Muktinath afterwards is one of trekking's great reliefs. Throughout, you sleep and eat in teahouses, so the load stays light and the villages stay close.

An ACAP permit and TIMS card are required, road construction has shortened some of the classic walking sections, and Nepal's guide rules for trekkers have shifted recently and are unevenly enforced. Verify the current requirements before booking, and build in days to acclimatise — at this altitude, that, not fitness, is what gets you over the pass.

One of the world's great treks, precisely because of how much it changes.

In two weeks it passes through perhaps four different worlds — subtropical rice terraces, pine and rhododendron forest, then the arid, Tibetan-feeling high country in the rain shadow beyond the mountains — on either side of its great obstacle, the Thorong La at 5,416 metres.

Crossing the pass means a start around three in the morning in hard cold, and the long drop to Muktinath afterwards is one of trekking's great reliefs. Throughout, you sleep and eat in teahouses, so the load stays light and the villages stay close.

The real challenge is altitude, not fitness.

Trek in the stable windows, March–May or October–November, and build in days to acclimatise — at this altitude that, not fitness, is what gets you over the pass.

An ACAP permit and TIMS card are required, and Nepal's guide rules for trekkers have shifted recently and are unevenly enforced, so verify the current requirements before booking. Road construction has shortened some classic walking sections, so check which parts are still worth walking.

Fly to Kathmandu or Pokhara to start. Teahouses mean you carry only a light pack, but bring proper cold-weather layers for the pass and take the ascent slowly.