Trekking in Yakushima

Yakushima is a mountain rising straight out of a subtropical sea, drenched by more rain than almost anywhere in Japan and, because of it, buried under moss so deep the forest looks enchanted — it is the landscape Studio Ghibli drew on for Princess Mononoke. The walk to Jōmon Sugi, a Japanese cedar that was already ancient when Rome fell, runs some twenty-two kilometres out and back on an old logging railway and forest trail.

Add Miyanoura-dake, the island's high point at 1,936 metres, and it becomes a full traverse. Expect to be rained on — it rains here most days, and that is precisely what makes the forest what it is — and expect a long day of around ten hours to reach the tree and return.

A forest-conservation donation applies, and private cars are restricted on the Arakawa access road in peak season, so you take an early shuttle bus. Come in spring or autumn, and come ready for wet.

A mountain rising straight out of a subtropical sea, drenched by more rain than almost anywhere in Japan and, because of it, buried under moss so deep the forest looks enchanted — the landscape Studio Ghibli drew on for Princess Mononoke.

The walk to Jōmon Sugi, a Japanese cedar already ancient when Rome fell, runs some twenty-two kilometres out and back on an old logging railway and forest trail, a long day of around ten hours. Add Miyanoura-dake, the island's 1,936-metre high point, and it becomes a full traverse.

Expect to be rained on — it rains here most days, and that is exactly what makes the forest what it is.

Come in spring or autumn — April–June or September–November — and come ready for wet, with proper waterproofs and boots that cope with mud and slick roots. A forest-conservation donation applies.

Private cars are restricted on the Arakawa access road in peak season, so you take an early shuttle bus to the trailhead — plan for the very early start. This is intermediate-to-advanced walking with a genuinely long day to the tree and back, so come fit.

Reach the island by ferry or short flight from Kagoshima. Book accommodation ahead, and treat the rain as part of the experience rather than a setback.