Trekking in Yakushima

Yakushima is a mountain rising straight out of a subtropical sea, drenched by more rain than almost anywhere in Japan and, because of it, buried under moss so deep the forest looks enchanted — it is the landscape Studio Ghibli drew on for Princess Mononoke. The walk to Jōmon Sugi, a Japanese cedar that was already ancient when Rome fell, runs some twenty-two kilometres out and back on an old logging railway and forest trail.

Add Miyanoura-dake, the island's high point at 1,936 metres, and it becomes a full traverse. Expect to be rained on — it rains here most days, and that is precisely what makes the forest what it is — and expect a long day of around ten hours to reach the tree and return.

A forest-conservation donation applies, and private cars are restricted on the Arakawa access road in peak season, so you take an early shuttle bus. Come in spring or autumn, and come ready for wet.

A forest environment conservation donation applies, and private cars are restricted on the Arakawa access road in peak season — you take the shuttle bus, which starts very early.