Walking in Plitvice Lakes

Plitvice is Croatia's oldest and most photographed national park, UNESCO-listed since 1979, and once you're inside it the reason is obvious: sixteen terraced lakes in impossible shades of turquoise and green, linked by a staircase of waterfalls, with wooden boardwalks running right across and beside the water. Walking it puts you inches from the falls in a way no viewpoint ever could.

The genius of the place is that boardwalk network. You stroll just above the surface, fish visible beneath your feet, cascades on every side, on flat routes that take anywhere from two to six hours and are strung together by a shuttle boat and a land train. It's easy underfoot — though not suited to pushchairs — and endlessly photogenic.

Entry is timed and the park gets very busy, so book ahead and go early or late to have the boardwalks to yourself. Spring and autumn bring the fullest waterfalls and the best colour. It's nature as a gentle, dazzling walk.

Croatia's oldest and most photographed national park, UNESCO-listed since 1979, and the reason is obvious once inside: sixteen terraced lakes in impossible shades of turquoise and green, linked by a staircase of waterfalls, with wooden boardwalks running right across and beside the water.

Walking it puts you inches from the falls in a way no viewpoint could.

The genius is the boardwalk network — you stroll just above the surface, fish visible beneath your feet, cascades on every side, on flat routes of two to six hours strung together by a shuttle boat and a land train.

It is easy underfoot, though the steps and railing-free boardwalks rule out pushchairs.

Buy a timed-entry ticket in advance — peak slots sell out — then follow one of the marked boardwalk routes, using the shuttle boat and land train to link the upper and lower lakes.

Go early or late in the day to have the boardwalks to yourself, since the park gets very busy. Spring and autumn bring the fullest waterfalls and the best colour.

There is no gradient worth mentioning, so it suits all ages and fitness levels, but the boardwalks have steps and no railings — bring a baby carrier rather than a pushchair. Wear grippy shoes; the boards can be wet and slick.