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Climbing in Indian Creek

Utah·United States

Climbing in Indian Creek

Photo: jfdervin · Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Epic~7 days

Why go

Indian Creek's cliffs are split by hundreds of dead-straight cracks of every width, from finger to offwidth, making it the place where modern crack technique was born. Supercrack Buttress and Donnelly Canyon are the classics, all under open desert skies near Canyonlands.

When

In season: Mar–May, Sep–Nov · Peak: Apr, Oct

Who it’s for

Skill
Intermediate–Expert
Effort
Demanding
Suitable from
14+ · Teen+
Crowds
Steady
Cost
$

Climbing specifics

Discipline
Trad
Grade range
5.9 to 5.13
Rock type
Wingate sandstone
Bolted
No

What to expect

Pure jamming on sharp sandstone, with a large rack of cams in repeated sizes and taped hands. Rock is fragile after rain, so climbers wait for it to dry, and camping is primitive.

Sectors

What the difficulty bands mean
moderate
Sustained effort or some exposure; comfort on the terrain expected.
hard
Long, technical or serious — experience and the right conditions required.
  1. Donnelly Canyon

    moderate

    Where most people climb their first Creek cracks

  2. Supercrack Buttress

    hard

    The birthplace of modern crack climbing, splitter lines

  3. Battle of the Bulge

    hard

    Steeper and wider, the testpiece wall

How to start

Camp at Superbowl or Creek Pasture and bring doubles or triples of cams. Start at Donnelly Canyon, learn to jam with a guide or experienced partner, and move to Supercrack and the Battle of the Bulge once your technique is solid.

What else is in Utah

Climbing elsewhere

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