Wyoming·United States
Photo: Tim Pearce, Los Gatos · Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)
The Grand Teton is the defining alpine climb of the American West, and the Upper Exum Ridge is one of its most celebrated routes, with exposed, solid granite high above the valley. The Owen-Spalding is the historic first ascent line and the usual descent.
In season: Jul–Sep · Peak: Aug
A long two- or three-day outing with a big approach to the Lower Saddle, an alpine start and several hours of roped climbing at altitude. Storms build fast in the afternoon.
The most famous ridge route in American alpinism
The original 1898 line and the standard descent
Ten Teton summits in one push, for the elite
Get a backcountry camping permit for the Lower Saddle or Moraine, or climb with one of the Jackson Hole guide services, which run the Exum Ridge daily in summer. Build multi-pitch and rappelling skills first, and acclimatise on a smaller peak.
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