Kayaking in the Pakleni Islands

Hvar is one of the Adriatic's star islands, and just off its harbour lies the Pakleni chain — a scatter of low, pine-covered islets ringed with hidden coves and water the clear blue-green the Croatian coast is famous for. Seen from a kayak, at water level and under your own power, it neatly sidesteps the crowds that fill the main island in season.

The paddling is gentle and forgiving: sheltered channels, short crossings of a kilometre or two, and frequent stops to swim off small beaches you can really only reach by boat. No experience is needed, which makes it an easy, joyful day on the water rather than an expedition — the archetypal Adriatic seascape with the volume turned down.

Go in the warmer months, late spring to early autumn, and set off earlier in the day before the afternoon breeze picks up across the open stretches. Bring a mask; the swim stops are half the reason to come at all.

Gentle, forgiving paddling around the Pakleni chain off Hvar — a scatter of low, pine-covered islets ringed with hidden coves and the clear blue-green water the Croatian coast is famous for.

Sheltered channels, short crossings of a kilometre or two, and frequent stops to swim off small beaches you can really only reach by boat.

No experience is needed, so it is an easy, joyful day on the water rather than an expedition — the archetypal Adriatic seascape with the volume turned down, and a way to sidestep the crowds that fill the main island in season.

Bring a mask; the swim stops are half the point.

Join a half-day guided sea-kayak tour from Hvar town — stable sit-on-top or sea kayaks and gear are supplied, and the guide handles navigation and picks the swim stops. No experience is needed, though it is worth reserving in peak summer.

Go in the warmer months, late spring to early autumn, and set off earlier in the day, before the afternoon breeze picks up across the open stretches. Bring a mask, sun protection, water and something to keep valuables dry.

It suits families and first-timers, so children from around six can usually come along. Base in Hvar town, an easy ferry from Split.