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Climbing in Devils Tower

Wyoming·United States

Climbing in Devils Tower

Photo: Larry D. Moore · Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)

Epic~3 daysPermit required

Why go

Devils Tower rises 265 m above the plains of northeast Wyoming, its sides split by hundreds of parallel columns of igneous rock. The cracks between them make for sustained crack and stemming routes, from the classic Durrance Route to the famous corner of El Matador.

When

In season: May–Oct · Peak: Sep

Who it’s for

Skill
Intermediate–Expert
Effort
Demanding
Suitable from
14+ · Teen+
Crowds
Quiet
Cost
$

Climbing specifics

Discipline
Trad
Grade range
5.7 to 5.13
Rock type
Phonolite porphyry
Bolted
No

What to expect

Steep, sustained crack and stemming climbing with multi-pitch rappel descents. The tower is sacred to many Native American tribes, who ask climbers to stay off it voluntarily each June.

Sectors

What the difficulty bands mean
easy
Accessible with basic fitness; no technical skills or exposure.
hard
Long, technical or serious — experience and the right conditions required.
  1. Tower base trail

    easy

    The walk round the formation for everyone else

  2. Durrance Route

    hard

    The classic line up the columns, six pitches

  3. El Matador

    hard

    The famous stemming corner on the west face

How to start

Register with the rangers before climbing, and respect the voluntary June closure. Climb the Durrance Route with a guide or experienced partner, and bring a large rack of cams for the wide cracks.

What else is in Wyoming

Climbing elsewhere

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