Walking in Nakasendo

The Nakasendo was the inland highway that samurai, merchants and messengers walked between Edo and Kyoto, and stretches of it survive almost untouched. Much of the full route is now tarmac, but the Kiso Valley section runs on original stone paving through post towns — Magome, Tsumago, Narai — that look very nearly as they did two hundred years ago, and staying in a centuries-old inn at the end of a walking day is the entire point.

The appeal is gentle and civilised: forest paths between preserved wooden towns, cedar-lined passes, and ryokan dinners where the walking earns the hot bath. It is far less demanding than the mountain pilgrim trails, which makes it a rare long walk in Japan that suits mixed ability and even teenagers.

Be honest about the modern sections — many walkers do the preserved Kiso Valley stretch on foot and train past the urban parts, which is no cheat. Spring and autumn are loveliest; book the old inns ahead in peak weeks.

The Nakasendo was the inland highway samurai, merchants and messengers walked between Edo and Kyoto, and stretches survive almost untouched.

Much of the full route is now tarmac, but the Kiso Valley section runs on original stone paving through post towns — Magome, Tsumago, Narai — that look very nearly as they did two hundred years ago, and staying in a centuries-old inn at the end of a walking day is the whole point.

The appeal is gentle and civilised: forest paths between preserved wooden towns, cedar-lined passes, and ryokan dinners where the walking earns the hot bath. It is far less demanding than the mountain pilgrim trails.

Be honest about the modern sections — many walkers do the preserved Kiso Valley stretch on foot and take the train past the urban parts, which is no cheat and makes for a far better trip.

Walk in spring or autumn, loveliest for the passes, and book the old ryokan and minshuku ahead in peak weeks, as they are small. It suits mixed ability and even teenagers, so no special skill is needed beyond walking fitness.

The Kiso Valley is well served by train, making it easy to string preserved sections together. Carry a day pack; some inns arrange luggage forwarding between towns.