Walking in Nakasendo

The Nakasendo was the inland highway that samurai, merchants and messengers walked between Edo and Kyoto, and stretches of it survive almost untouched. Much of the full route is now tarmac, but the Kiso Valley section runs on original stone paving through post towns — Magome, Tsumago, Narai — that look very nearly as they did two hundred years ago, and staying in a centuries-old inn at the end of a walking day is the entire point.

The appeal is gentle and civilised: forest paths between preserved wooden towns, cedar-lined passes, and ryokan dinners where the walking earns the hot bath. It is far less demanding than the mountain pilgrim trails, which makes it a rare long walk in Japan that suits mixed ability and even teenagers.

Be honest about the modern sections — many walkers do the preserved Kiso Valley stretch on foot and train past the urban parts, which is no cheat. Spring and autumn are loveliest; book the old inns ahead in peak weeks.

Be honest with yourself about the modern sections — many walkers do the preserved Kiso Valley stretch and train past the urban parts.